Certain basic functions, e.g. temperature control, are considered as a matter of course premise.


There should be really a taste at first. That's a subjective criterion though there are right and wrong which depends on products.
Temperature zone gives rise to difference in the taste clearly. Higher temperature makes much vapor and proper hypo though, it diminishes the flavor. A certain low level of temperature makes a rich flavor.
In the second reason might be a temperature deviation inner chamber in guessing, which is exactly a temperature deviation of shag infilled. At least that would have an effect on a vaporizer to be subtle in flavor or not directly.
There is a tendency to be trade-off between the deviation and the capacity of a chamber. No one could please a vaporizer which has no deviation but slight capacity.

It's better to be higher general versality. As for an atomizer for dry herb, it seems that good products have been going into circulation on market.

It's very important whether the cleaning is easy or not, which depends on structure and materials.
A material which propagates heat has a high conductivity and such a material is easy to get dirty and to be burned. It might be easy to clean up in case such a part could be exposed easily. By the way, a vaporizer with convection method might be constructed with materials which is hard to get dirty.
And it determines right or wrong for depthful cleaning how far could it be broken down.

A power efficiency could not be a problem if the runtime had not cared, or the power capacity had been very large. That depends on the method of heating and the structure. It's a result of a power loss that the shell is going to be heat which is a matter of degree though.

Almost vaporizers are built all in one, especially the battery is a type built-in. i.e. that's low general versatility. Such a product is a consumable as all. In that case, it's not big issue the battery could be exchange or not. Besides, almost heater might be not permanent part.
Of course, reserve batteries could be brought with if it could be exchanged. Manufactures might dislike that cause fire and explosion accidents often happen due to use fake or non-descript batteries.

It's better to use an AC adaptor without charge. That makes home usage easy without battery degradation. There is rarely such a product even if it's simple mechanism.



Two methods which are conduction and convection are famous, and there are inner heating and outer heating for a conduction method. And pretty soon an induction heating would be appear on the scean.
With that, there would be four methods as follows.


A conduction method is a heat transfer method. As for an inner conduction method, a heater is located inner side of the chamber or the chamber itself is a heater, and that would heat shag directly. As for an outer conduction method, a heater is located outer side of chamber, and that would heat shag through the intermediary of the chamber.
An inner conduction method is excellent as an electric power efficiency though, there is few ingenious attempt product and almost products heat in the small or doesn't heat but burn shag. A chamber material could be used stainless as an example, and it's easy to clean. But the heater might be burned which desired to be exposed and be cleaned up.
An outer conduction method is wrong as an electric power efficiency but is good at temperature deviation. A chamber material is almost brass with chrome passivation which is easy to be burned and dirty.

A convection method might depend on the air flow and the structure in guessing, I have not used and I don't know. There is a product not due to electrical heating but to gas burning.

As an induction heating method, it heats metal material due to lead radiofrequency pulse to a coil and ingenerate electromagnetic induction. That could heat a chamber itself, and it's okay to heat a piece of metal in a chamber. That method would be expected to be high efficiency. It could be easy to make slight temperature deviation. And the heater could be used almost permanently. It might be easy to clean.
It seems to be an ideal though, marketed products are quite rare.



A conduction method has a proper aspect of the structure. It's better that a chamber is long and thin.

An outer conduction method, it could make temperature deviation to be small due to heat the whole with long and thin chamber.

An inner conduction method, whole of long and thin chamber should be heater or a long and thin heater is needed to be suited into a chamber. It's good to put a heater shaped blade or rod into a chamber or to lining the heater to inner side of a chamber.
By the way, a product with a coil or a ceramic donut heater at bottom of the chamber could not heat whole of chamber. Instead, That could not heat but burn the shag. As that product, it could not be called a vaporizer.

As for a convection method, I don't know. The structure might not determine right or wrong.

I think the induction heating has a lot of flexibility. A metal as a heating element is absolutely flex. In other mechanics it's almost same as inner conduction method and it's better to use a long and thin chamber in guessing.

The point is whole of shag closing to a heating element.



I have five marketed product vaporizers Arizer ArGo, Elevi IPRO DR60, Davinci IQ, Boundless CFC and Herbstick Eco. And I guess they are excellent in that order. However to the extent that no use the genuine attatched mod for the Elevi IPRO DR60.
There are several other vaporizers which I've been curious though, I feel enough to have a hand-build one and those four vaporizers.



It seems to be an ideal vaporizer though, I left it lying about since I was in a shisha.

It was saled saving price 202 US$ included shipping due to direct sales by the manufacture at selling out.
manufacture's site : https://arizer.com/argo/



It has a celamic heating chamber featured of inner-conduction method, and there are many beneficial features, with an image of high powered.

It's impossible to drive with low temperature and it's difficult to take the natural flavor of shag, even if setting lowest temperature and dozen seconds for one heat, it's difficult to drive with stabilized low temperature.
That's a failing of the mod and that could be resolved due to use a general-used "510" mod.

In truth, no temperature deviation in the chamber is the best prior condition for taking the flavor with stabilized low temperature.

In that case, it's desired that the mod has not only fire-button but also another switch or mode which could keep the output continuously. About that it's different usage with the vape.
The Control method would be VV or VW which is easier to set right temperature. And, in driving with low temperature i.e. low output power, it's also easier to fine tuning due to exchange the pace of blowing.



It's a product took over the high-class image from the Davinci series though, it has no real strongness and has no real weakness.

It's a doubtful product be worth the price though, its taste is so-so good



It's compact and good design. It might not be hard to spot even if using in a cafe

It might be a good balanced product. It's easy to repair the cracking the mouthpiece due to heat-resistant molding cement though, it's innocuous to buy it from Boundless directly and registre the user registration cause Boundless's securement is very hospitable.



It's a decent product for the cheap price, it might be good for first trial the vaporizer.

A mod is used as a standard power supply for the Vape, which could be attached an atomizer.
A standard connector is '510'.

It's rarely to use a mod for vaporizers cause they are almost all in one products. There is an excellent atomizer for dry herb though.

There are roughly two types of the mod. One is called 'mechanical' and another is called 'technical'. A technical mod has a electric control unit as VV(Variable Voltage), VW(Variable Wattage), TC(Temperature Control) and has a protect circuit. A mechanical mod is just a battery box.
There have been lots of reckless deeds to use an IMR cell by a mechanical mod. An IMR could output dozen watts.

A value of an atomizer(heater) impedance was few ohm in initial period, and now it has come to be under one ohm called subohm as a main stream. It's need to attention the combination cause a mod also has a range of output voltage.

I have three general purposed mods though they are still unused except one cause I feel fear to use the Li-ion battery. I've been using a mod with indicator of voltage which has no risk about over discharge.



I made a mod as a stabilized power supply used four AA NiMH batteries which has almost no risk.
The purpose is used for an inner conduction vaporizer which is good power efficiency and it's enough to output several watts. A NiMH has come to be closed to Li-ion as electric power density recently.

It's a stabilized variable voltage power supply used a boost switching power module with LMR62421 chip which could output 24V as maximum.
It's sized almost same as the iStick pico which is a minimum class as a mod. Main switch could exchange V-in from batteries or AC adaptor. A voltmeter could express voltage of V-out or V-in cause it's needed to check the voltage of NiMH batteries for the final voltage.

I made another one as same functional scheme as that except the power module, which was used a OKL-T/6-W12N-C chip. That range of V-out is 0.6V ~ 5.5V 6A/max. That's useful for subohm atomizers.

As for the connector, it's not '510' but a standard jack for electric devices. And, I made an adaptor for '510'.



As for right pictures, it's a mod for AC power supply used only, connected with '510'.
It's able to drive a subohm atomizer around 30W as maximum by the module OKL-T/6-W12N-C.


It's a general purposed power supply.

A lantern is saled for the mod on the market.
i.e. the mod is just a stabilized variable voltage power supply.



A #2 jack was added to the mod for only AC power supply. That made it possible to be used for a hand-build vaporizer.



mod used LMR62421

Voltage input is 2.7 ~ 5.5V and output is 3.5 ~ 24.0V. i.e. It's used for a high impedance atomizer.
Maximum output power is only around 10W which could used for a vaporizer excelled in heating efficiency.
In case of NiMH batteries, which has proper final voltage and the mod could check the voltage of not only output but also batteries.



mod used OKL-T/6-W12N-C

Voltage input is 4.5 ~ 14.0V and output is 0.9 ~ 5.5V. It could be used for almost atomizers even if subohm.
Maximum output power is around 30W high power with a proper external power supply. In case of four NiMH batteries, it could be used for a vaporizer to the point of 10W as maximum.
In case of NiMH batteries, which has proper final voltage and the mod could check the voltage of not only output but also batteries.


mod exclusive used for AC adaptor

AC adaptor is right thing for using at home. It's no need to spend rechargeable batteries and to decrease their lives.
Maximum output power is around 30W and it could be used for almost atmizers vaporizers and vape-atomizers.

Circuit, which is almost same as the mod used OKL-T/6-W12N-C mentioned above.

Voltage input is 4.5 ~ 14.0V, output is 0.9 ~ 5.5V which could drive subohm atomizers. Maximum output power is around 30W with a proper AC adaptor. Due to the chip features, the power supply 12.0V/3.0A above is right.
As a power switch, a slide switch and a tact switch are connected in parallel. With that, a slide switch is for a vaporizer and a tact switch is for a vape as so-called "fire button".

It's a best method for drawing flavor from shag to heat at low temperature. That's a matter of preference though.
However, it might be hard to make the temperature deviation to be small at low temperature. And thus, it's adopted inner-conduction method due to stick a rod heater into the chamber(filled of shag). It could be in a better condition that a shape of the chamber is longer and thin.

That makes energy efficiency to be very high cause of heat lossless. In case of outer-conduction method it's required dozen wattages though, that makes enough heating on several wattages. It could be workable by the NiMH battery low-powered.



A chamber and a mouthpiece were diverted from a product.
That's an atomizer specified '510' connecting which was typically had a coil or seramic donut heater at bottom of the chamber and was useless thing as a vaporizer. I pulled out a heater and a terminal Vdd and mounted a rod heater to the space.

I bought few typed atomizers seemed to could be used which were priced around 2 ~ 15$ for each one.

connected with the mod by a cable.

A cable for robotics is very flexible and is prevent to tens of thousands of bends.

A head of the rod heater would be high temperature.

A rod heater is holded by a heat-resisting rubber which is used for the '510' connector as standard for the purpose of no contact with a metal part.

By around 5 watts, it could vaporize shag for handroll, its taste was good with sweetness of shag. A vaporizer product used at that time had come to be unused. That product had so-so reputation and I think I could make it well as same at least.




It's easy to clean up, because it's able to be decomposed in a finely devided and the chamber is made by stainless. A rod heater would be burned though, it could be scraped away cause the rod heater is very tough.

The main feature is high effiency of thermal energy. It's mostly heat lossless cause its architecture, and that makes easy to heat at low temperature and makes the flavor to be rich. The temperature could be finely controled due to a frequency of blowing.
As for brands of marketed products, there are some vaporizers which could not be drived at low temperature even with a low setting.

However, it might not be a specification as a marketed product to put a rod heater into shag.

Unfortunately there is no electric shisha in the market, I would try to use the hand-build vaporizer as a shisha, because it has a good adequacy as it happens.

Not explained in more depth below though, a flavor is very easier to be vaporised compared to shag. There might be lots of atomizers of vaporizers to be used well as a shisha even if those are not so powerful.



The flavor is in paste form. It resembles pickled vegetable in appearance.

An electric risk might be high if the chamber and circuits are not separated. If the flavor exudes into the substrate or contact points of the heater, that would bring possibility of not only failures but also short-circuit of a battery. It depends on a control function of a power-supply though, if a lithium-manganese battery which could output dozen wattages would be shorted it would take fire or explode.

Vaporizers one-body mechanism are not in the options.
And, even if a mod and an atomizer are separated it has possibility that an atomizer could be shorted in its inner circuits. If a power-supply control has high reliability it might be protected against overcurrent, ...

It might be no problem to use the flavor to the VAPE isn't it? Because liquid is used to.
Perhaps there is no electric risk. But the coil would be burned and it would be gone to pot. Besides, the flavor could be heated just in the small because the flavor is high viscosity compared to the liquid.

As it happens, as for the hand-build vaporizer, a chamber and circuits are separated completely. There is also no possibility that the flavor exudes into contact points of a heater.



The flavor is in paste form.

As for a left picture, the flavor is filled in a chamber. Central appearance is a head of a rod heater. Discernibly air flow seems to be unexpected though, surprisingly it has good air flow as same as shag.



As for a right picture, the flavor is filled in a metallic pipe which would be set in a chamber of the DR60.

The metallic pipe is desired to be fit to inner size of a chamber. That makes inner of a chamber to be non-stick. At least in case of shag that has great effect.

This is also seemed that the air flow could be unexpected though, it has good air flow too as same as the hand-build vaporizer.



Cleaning might be a hurdle to use marketed vaporizers as a shisha.

A part which conducts heat would be burned with absolute certainty.

As for the hand-build vaporizer, inner side of a chamber is non-stick though, a rod heater would be burned. A rod heater is a secure metallic pipe and could be took apart, and so it could be scraped by a knife as a right pictures. It could be the same as the new one without time and effort.

The flavor for shisha is easy to heat up. Its thermal conductivity might be higher compared to shag cause of paste form.
As for a left picture, the flavor stacked up to be black charcoal.



A metallic pipe for set into a inner of a chamber of the DR60 was stainless steel and it had been non-stick in case of using shag though, not only the pipe but also inner of the chamber were burned.
That urged to scrape the inner. If that's not cared, the DR60 might be better suited for using as a shisha.



In conclusion, following two conditions might be required for using a market vaporizer as a shisha. Both of conditions could be evaluated due to check its architecture out.


It might be better to keep out a vaporizer typed all-in-one of the way. Even if a mod and an atomizer are separated, there is still a risk that the flavor exudes into contact points of a heater. At least a technical mod must be used which is protected against overcurrent.

Whether it's easy or not to clean up that depends on how far it's dismounted. Almost vaporizers have a chamber shaped cylindrically and it's hard to clean up. DR60 is not exception.
In just guessing cause I've not been using though, vaporizers adopted the convection architecture might not be burned. And, it may have possibility that a part of heating of IH(induction heating) architecture could be easy cleaned up. However, I've never seen atomizers, not all-in-one, adopted convection or induction heating. Those were able to be produced though, atomizers would have various circuits and would be complex architecture.



mixes shag and honey, fruits, slight glycerin, and steams those in moderation. That said, it's not seemed to be difficult though, it's impossible to cook rich taste and flavor as same as marketed flavors due to feel one's way.

I have an intention to search correct recipes, and to do try and error, and to write a new chapter for.

As for marketed flavors, it's recommended to choice flavors made by Al Fakher and Golden Layalina both are located in Dubai. Especially Al Fakher gets high market evaluation as not only its taste and flavor but also 100% organic flavor.
Fumari and Starbuzz are famous as flavors made in USA though, those seem to be lower evaluation than Dubai flavors. Starbuzz is a peculiar producer to make uncommon flavors, which could be used aroma chemical in guessing.
Of course, right and wrong depend on brand and flavor.

A right picture is a marketed vaporizer named "Herbstick Eco" decomposed. There are three parts as a chamber and a power supply controler, a battery. What is needed is just a part of a chamber.

"Herbstick Eco" is a cheap vaporizer though, its taste is so so good and the chamber itself is not so bad.
Its built-in battery is useless in short time, and there have been some reports which the substrate of power supply controller would be broken by the vapor. And thus, it's never recommended. It's inexpensive though...



A left picture is a chamber added a '510' connector which is the standard.
A part of '510' soldered with cables must be coated in order to block out the vapor.

Its impedance is 0.7 ohm. A subohm atomizer is finished.



It's very compact and is high performance. It could be a sellable atomizer in guessing.




A type of the chamber is outer-conduction. A part of heat conduction might be brass with chrome plating.
Its surface is certainly burned regardless whether shag or flavor of shisha.
In case of shag it's hard to clean cause of hard stuck though, unexpectedly, in case of a flavor of shisha it's easy to be scraped by a small knife. For this purpose, it's needed that the flavor must be carbonized as it could be. If that's imcomplete it might be harder to clean up.

In case of using a marketed mods, it's driven due to around 15 ~ 20 wattages as VW(Variable Wattage) or around 3 voltages as VV(Variable Voltage), it's driven due to around 10 ~ 15 wattages as VW(Variable Wattage) or around 2.5 voltages as VV(Variable Voltage).

It's better to vaporize a flavor of shisha at low temperature as it could be.
Even if at high temperature it could be rich taste though, it's known that it would produce much hazardous tar and benzin at high temperature. In case of low temperature, under normal conditions, toxic substances are lower than a paper-wrapped cigarette.