Depending on the efficiency, it will provide 7-10W of power and 2-3A of current, and if two lights are used, 1-1.5A of current will be drawn per circuit.
For dcdc, the LMR62421 chip is used so that a stable voltage can be supplied. It could be OKL-T/6-W12N-C, which has higher output and is capable of not only up-conversion but also down-conversion.
As for the constant-current circuit, although commercially available products can be used, we decided to build a constant-current circuit using an OP amplifier and MOSFETs for the reasons already mentioned.
If the question is about efficiency, it is how to suppress the MOSFETs from generating heat for the voltage that exceeds the Vf of the PowerLED. The loss of R3 is not negligible. The heat generation must be suppressed while still providing sufficient illumination. Trial and error with a variable voltage regulated power supply and a breadboard is the only way to solve this problem.
The red LED is also used as a monitor lamp in the actual device, but I considered using this Vf as it is for Vref.
Normally, the current value would be variable by dividing the voltage with a potentiometer and making Vref variable, but I thought that if Vref is fixed to make various adjustments simple, it would be easy to adjust the dcdc output according to the Vf of the PowerLED since Vref does not change even if the dcdc output is changed.
However, if the Vf of the red LED is 2.1V and R3 is 2.2Ħ, a current of about 1A will flow, resulting in a large loss of 2W.
The output of dcdc to obtain sufficient illumination was about Vf + 0.5V of PowerLED, so Vref was set to 0.5V by voltage divider of resistors based on this voltage. 500mA if R3 is 1Ħ, and 1A current will flow if 1Ħ is added in parallel. Adding a SW to the additional resistor will switch the mode.
The constant current circuit shown in the figure is one circuit for one light. dcdc and Vref can be shared when using two lights and two circuits. it would be better to put a capacitor at the output of dcdc.
The illuminance should be calculated here. The PowerLED used is the Cree XHP50.x.
This series has three classes of Vf 3, 6, and 12V, all of which have a maximum standard of 18W and 2320 lumen. In other words, even the maximum illumination is 128.9 lumen/W, which is a high efficiency. If you drive at low power and low illumination, we can expect around 140-150 lumen/W.
To obtain 1000 lumen illumination with two lamps, 3.5W should be applied to each lamp. 1.1A is sufficient if Vf is 3.25V, and 0.6A is sufficient if Vf is 5.75V.
Since we will connect two 1Ħ resistors in parallel to R3, adjust Vref to 0.55 to 0.60V and let 1.1 to 1.2A flow through R3.
It may seem like a waste to use two PowerLEDs with 1000 lumens when a single PowerLED has over 2000 lumens, but if this leads to higher efficiency and longer runtime, then so be it.
I have all the materials.
But now I am beginning to wonder if NiMH is really the way to go. Wouldn't it be better to make it in a lithium-ion rechargeble buttery?
I had two 18650 rechargeable batteries and I found a battery box that looked good, so I bought it on impulse along with the control circuit. A good battery box is one that does not use dovetails and is unlikely to cause contact defects. This is an important point.
For control safety, the system is powered by a single cell, but if two cells are set and switched, they can be used in case of sudden battery failure.
I own 18650 rechargeable batteries and chargers from a reliable manufacturer. My personal concern is whether the control module is reliable when discharging.
It is not used for charging, and single-cell discharge control is also simple. And most ignition and explosion accidents are caused by the battery itself or the balancing circuit of the multi-cell control.
Lithium-ion rechargeable batteries not only have superior power to capacity ratio but are also easier to handle, so there is no reason not to use them if safety is guaranteed.
Therefore, each part should be modularized as needed. The battery part should be easily interchangeable between different sized cases. The case can be used with either 4 NiMH rechargeable batteries or 2 Li-ion rechargeable batteries.
Use of lithium-ion rechargeable battery with one cell, switchable between two cells in a case
The old light I diverted to 800 lumen light was so useful that I want to carry on the concept and make my own. The sketch looks like this;
Red line is a case of Li-ion, and blue line is a case of NiMH.
The power supply part and the light-emitting head part are morphologically separated, and the angle of the head can be easily adjusted.
The joint is a little too large. I would like to make it a little more compact.
The LEDs will be Cree XHP50.2 with a Vf of 5.75V, and the dcdc will be boosted using a TPS61088, so whether the input is 4.8V of NiMH or 3.7V of Li-Ion, the output will be stable.
In other words, the two types of battery cases and the voltage booster parts can be detached and replaced with pin connectors, etc.
The combination of a constant-current circuit and LEDs can be handled even if the LEDs are replaced by adjusting the dcdc output and Vref with a potentiometer.
However, it is too cumbersome to minimize losses with MOSFETs and R3, and I don't think there are any LEDs that would want to remove the Cree XHP50.2 and install it instead, so I'll fix this combination.
Install a voltmeter with LED display so that the voltage of the battery and the voltage after boosting can be switched and monitored. The monitor lamp will no longer be necessary.
The LED is a Cree XHP50.2 with Vf of 5.75V. The maximum power is 2546lm/19W. The maximum power is 3000mA, so the Vf would be about 6.3V. 1400mA would increase the efficiency to 1120lm/8.05W.
There are not many collimators that fit the 5mm square tip. Either the collimator or the base needs to be modified.
dcdc is a boost module using the TPS61088 chip. The output is very stable even with a slightly larger load and can output up to 10A. Put a capacitor on the output side just in case.
The control circuit for the lithium-ion rechargeable battery is a well-known Chinese module using TP4056 and DW01A.
In the December 2018 issue of Transistor Technology, this module is positively evaluated for its multifunctionality and safety. It is used exclusively for discharge, but the overcurrent control is 3A, so an output of 7.5 to 11.1W can be expected, which is suitable for the purpose of 1000lm.
For an AA NiMH 4-cell, an output of 8.0-9.6W can be expected.
This also means that with this power supply section, whether it is a NiMH 4-cell or Li-Ion, the limit is about 1200 lm. dcdc has much more leeway.
The maximum illumination by two LEDs has a potential of 5000lm, so the module with constant current circuit and LEDs fixed should be designed to bring out that potential. Although this power supply unit cannot be used and 5000lm is too high illumination, a mode that can be set up to 5000lm in stages by connecting to a high output power supply should be provided.
For 1200lm or so, a boost module using LMR62421 chip for dcdc would have been sufficient, but the use of TPS61088, which can output up to 10A, is to leave the possibility of extracting this potential.
Prior to fabrication, combinations of Vref settings and limiting resistors were tested in a spreadsheet to examine mode settings.
As a basic, it switches between 436lm Lo mode and 1076lm Hi mode with a single switch.
As a case of further exploiting the potential of LEDs, a setting of 2000lm/3000lm/4000lm/5000lm was calculated. However, adding 3-4 switches for this purpose is too much, so I can add 2 switches to switch between 2036lm/2996lm/3956lm. 2 switches can add 3 modes.
But this is only possible if I have a battery that can output 30W for 4000lm. For example, for 5000lm, 36W output is required.
Some lithium-ion rechargeable batteries have a large capacity and 2C discharge capability, and are capable of 30-40W output. Discharge control will also use dedicated high amperage ones, but it is questionable to what extent these can be trusted. Also, the runtime will be about 30 minutes, although the illuminance is not always used. A typical control circuit using 18650 batteries would require about four batteries. Multi-cell lithium-ion control is risky and a bit too portable.
The only possibility is to use it on an electric bicycle.
Here is the actual circuit diagram, not an experiment. The constant current circuit is the same as the experiment and the 800lm circuit, but with different parts and program values. For mode switches, one switch is shared by two light circuits. The resistors associated with it are individual in the two light circuits.
First, the head and joints part, which would be the most difficult hurdle to hand-building.
This turned out unexpectedly beautiful.
I tried on some replaceable head parts. I dare it to use the same size and the same fixation method.
There are two rotation points, and the head can rotate up and down nearly 180 degrees. Since it only needs to be able to rotate slightly downward, the one that joints to the power supply unit can be fixed. If this would make it more compact, that would be better.
The rest is just a matter of time.
Waterproofing measures should be carefully implemented.
However, the only thing that is a concern is the mechanical switch. Semiconductors have no problem even if they get wet, and if the entire board is potted, there is no problem at all. The board can be covered with epoxy adhesive. Of course, the surface of the chip that generates heat is excluded.
Potting is also an anti-vibration measure. Although it is highly unlikely to be damaged by vibration, potting the light's circuit board is indeed an appropriate measure.
I have long wondered why common commercial products break due to flooding, but I thought it was simply not possible to waterproof them in order to keep the chips that generate heat exposed. Or they simply skimped on the cost a bit. If it is hand-building, it could be an easy task to waterproof it, except for the surface of the heat-generating chip only.
As a rule, the pending mechanical switches are installed at the bottom of the structure. This alone has some effect against flooding, but it does not prevent moisture.
Therefore, we should apply contact grease. If the switch can be disassembled and injected with grease, it will be quite waterproof, but just applying it to the exposed parts will have some waterproof effect.
Contact grease should also be applied to mechanical contacts such as battery terminals and connect pins. Prevent oxidation, etc., and keep contacts permanently energized.
While contact cleaners and contact resurrectors are designed to eliminate defective contacts, contact grease is designed to prevent contact deterioration and is highly effective in preventing moisture and waterproofing. Upwardly compatible, so to speak.